Romagnoli (Marche, Italy)

Azienda Agricola Romagnoli is a family-owned winery in Morro d’Alba, in the rolling hills of the Marche between the Adriatic coast and the Apennines. The Romagnoli family began its commercial wine activities in 1970, although grape growing and winemaking had been part of the family’s agricultural tradition long before. Today, three generations remain involved in the complete production cycle, from vineyards and cellar work to bottling. The estate has grown to around 18 hectares, covering both the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and the much smaller Lacrima di Morro d’Alba appellation.

Romagnoli, however, is particularly interesting for its work with Lacrima, one of Italy’s most unusual indigenous red grapes. The variety is almost exclusively confined to the hills around Morro d’Alba and neighbouring communes in the province of Ancona. The DOC was established in 1985, when only around seven hectares were planted; although the area has since expanded considerably, Lacrima remains a highly localised speciality.

The grape is immediately recognisable for its extraordinary fragrance. Rose petals and violets are joined by dark cherry, berries, cinnamon and other spices, while the wines combine an almost perfumed character with surprisingly deep colour and savoury freshness. The name Lacrima (“tear”) refers to the tendency of the ripe skins to split and release small drops of juice.

Romagnoli produces several interpretations, from the classic Barbarosso to the more ambitious Mirummundi, a Lacrima Superiore from south- and south-west-facing vineyards at 190–250 metres, fermented and matured in stainless steel. The estate’s “++” represents an even more selective expression, made from carefully selected grapes at low yields, with extended maturation in steel and glass. Fredericus, meanwhile, showcases the grape in its sweet passito form.

The winery’s historical connection to the region is also reflected in its labels: Barbarosso recalls the local legend of Frederick I, Barbarossa, while Mirummundi refers to Frederick II, who was born in nearby Jesi in 1194.

For Hannes, Romagnoli has a particularly personal significance. In 2010, while visiting his old student hometown of Konstanz, he first discovered Lacrima di Morro d’Alba through the Cantina wine shop. It was his first encounter with this wonderfully unusual grape—and a memorable one. More than a decade later, Romagnoli brings that same distinctive Marche character to the WPS portfolio.