Il Rio (Mugello, Tuscany, Italy)

Hidden in the hills between Vicchio di Mugello and the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Il Rio is one of Tuscany's most unusual small wine estates. Owned and run by Paolo Cerrini and Manuela Villimburgo, the estate has built its reputation around a variety rarely associated with Tuscany: Pinot Nero. The clay-rich soils, continental climate and pronounced day-to-night temperature variations create remarkably favourable conditions for the variety, resulting in wines with freshness, aromatic complexity and an unmistakable sense of place. 

Paolo Cerrini was originally a goldsmith in Florence, with no traditional family background in winemaking. His passion for agriculture and wine led him to experiment with northern grape varieties in the early 1990s. The first tiny vineyard, just 350 vines, was planted in 1992, initially simply to make wine for family and friends. Encouraged by the quality of the early wines, Paolo and Manuela gradually expanded the project, establishing Azienda Agricola Il Rio in 2003. 

The choice of varieties was anything but conventional. Marco De Grazia was among those who encouraged Paolo to plant Pinot Nero, while over the years the couple sought advice from a remarkable group of specialists, including Pinot Nero expert Franz Haas. Today they work two small, high-density vineyards: the historic half-hectare Il Rio, at around 260 metres, and the 1.5-hectare Le Panche, planted in 2004–05. Both are trained using a modified lyre system inspired by methods used in Burgundy and Savoy, designed to protect the delicate grapes from excessive heat while maintaining excellent ventilation and ripening. 

In the cellar, the philosophy is equally artisanal: minimal intervention and maximum respect for the vineyard. The flagship Ventisei, made from 100% Pinot Nero, undergoes partial carbonic maceration, temperature-controlled fermentation and malolactic fermentation in barrique, followed by extended ageing in wood, cement and bottle. The wines are deliberately given time to develop before release. 

Il Rio also produces Annita, a distinctive white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Nero vinified as a white wine, together with the Pinot Nero rosé Terosé. Paolo and Manuela were also among the founding members of Appennino Toscano – Vignaioli di Pinot Nero, established to promote Pinot Nero in the Tuscan Apennines. 

For Wine Provision Shop, Il Rio has a particularly personal story. Hannes Hentze discovered the estate through a Merum feature on Pinot Nero in the Tuscan Apennines, “Pinot Noir – Casentino und Mugello”, published in 2020. The article drew his attention to this highly unconventional interpretation of Pinot Nero in Tuscany. Through Andreas März, Hannes subsequently established contact with Paolo and Manuela. The relationship has continued ever since, with the couple remaining in regular email contact with Hannes, assisted by a neighbour who helps translate between Italian and English. This personal connection is an important part of what makes Il Rio a particularly special addition to the Wine Provision Shop portfolio.

Today, Il Rio remains a tiny, independent and highly individual estate, producing wines that challenge the conventional image of Tuscany. Rather than Sangiovese and the region's traditional styles, Paolo and Manuela have demonstrated that the cool hills of the Mugello can produce remarkably expressive Pinot Nero — wines of elegance, freshness, savoury complexity and genuine individuality.