Tezza (Veneto, Italy)

Hannes discovered the Tezza winery through a tasting of Amarone recommended by the Italian wine magazine MERUM, and it immediately caught our attention. What we particularly liked was the style: rather than the very rich, sweet and overpowering Amarones that are sometimes found, Tezza produces wines that are elegant, dry, spicy and distinctly tannic, with a wonderful sense of structure and restraint.

The Tezza family has been dedicated to winegrowing for three generations. Grandparents Giovanni and Virginia started the family's vineyard operation in 1960, followed by their sons Paolo, Giuseppe and Renzo, who developed the business into a winery. Since 1998, the estate has been run by cousins Flavio, Vanio and Federico, who have complete control over the entire production process – from planting and tending their own vineyards to winemaking, bottling and sales. All the grapes come from the family's own estate vineyards, giving the wines complete traceability and allowing the cousins to maintain a very hands-on approach throughout production.

The vineyards lie in the Valpantena, a beautiful valley just north-east of Verona, between Lake Garda and the Lessini Mountains. Although part of the greater Valpolicella area, Valpantena has a character of its own. Its limestone-derived soils and temperate climate create wines that are often more earthy, spicy and mineral, with a firm structure that distinguishes them from the richer, more fruit-driven styles found elsewhere in Valpolicella.

Tezza's vineyards around Poiano and Nesente, just outside Verona, are planted using both Guyot and the traditional sloping Veronese pergola system. The combination of old family vineyards, meticulous grape selection and traditional Amarone production results in wines with considerable depth, but also freshness and tannic backbone.

Tezza's Amarones have received consistently high praise from MERUM and other Italian wine critics. Particularly noteworthy is the Brolo delle Giare Riserva, whose 2003 vintage was described by wine writer Elisabetta Tosi as a terroir-driven Amarone with earthy and spicy character, black pepper, liquorice and dark cherry, finishing dry, clean and self-confident.

This is exactly what we like about Tezza: an Amarone with power and concentration, but without sacrificing elegance, freshness and tannic structure. For lovers of serious, food-friendly Amarone, it offers a refreshing alternative to the more opulent style.